book Box- Finished Product

In the end, I didn't feel I was able to accurately copy the original box, especially in matching the paint colors. However, I feel that overall the box would work in a play setting, and was relatively period-correct from 30 feet away.

Book Box- Process

For our box assignment, I was assigned to build a straw book jewelry box. I was given a sheet with dimensions and an image of the box I would make. I began work by constructing a wooden box using plywood with the dimensions of the assignment. Next, I searched for a material to use for the straw decoration. I initially wanted to use split straw, as I find the best way to mimic a material is to use the material, but I was unable to obtain any. I experimented using synthetic raffia ribbon and found that it worked well for the pages of the book but that it was too hard to use on the detailed panels on the top of the box. In the end, I decided to use strips of card stock, cut into strips and pieces to make the pattern on the top of the box. I found it necessary to modify the pattern from it's original design, as the dimensions I was given didn't appear to match the dimensions in the photo. I tried to stay true to the original design. First I gave the box an undercoat of dark brown paint to match the color of the photo of the box. I then glued the cardstock pieces to top and side of the box and began the painstaking process of painting it. Finally, I added dark brown lines between each of the pieces of cardstock so the pattern would be more visible to the audience.

Bull Cane

I created an extra credit cane with a bull head on top. I used the same process at the dog cane, but I didn't add as much detail.

Box Project

We were each assigned different boxes to create, I had to make a jewelry box that looked like metal. I cut pieces of wood, glued them together, cut thinner wood into shapes, glued them on, then painted the whole thing.

Polar Bear- Process

I began this task by buying several shower curtains and making a pattern out of the small brown bear rug to use as a proportion reference. I then purchased a large amount of polar bear fleece from Joann’s, which I sewed into a large rectangle which would fit into the basic dimensions of the polar bear without the arms and legs. Using the juvenile brown bear pattern (dubbed “baby bear”), I drew the size and proportion of the polar bear I would be constructing on another set of shower curtains. I showed this to the director for approval so he had an accurate idea of how the bear would look on stage. Before cutting out the fabric, I began work on the head, because I thought I could modify the fabric if the head was inadvertently larger or smaller than anticipated. I began by making a chicken wire frame, which I could build up bit by bit to insure structural stability. Once the frame was constructed, I sealed the bottom and sides with plaster strips. I used spray foam on the top of the head (which was open) to insure that the structure I created was light weight but sturdy. I then used Plaster of Paris to begin roughly shaping the more intricate details, such as the hollows of the eyes and the bridge of the nose. Once the plaster was dry, I continued to layer and add detail with cheap modeling clay and finally a thin layer of stone clay for additional strength. For the tongue, I took a sheet of wire mesh, shaped it into the contours I wanted, and covered it in clay. I then attached it into the mouth. I worried the actors would inadvertently kick the teeth out of the bear’s mouth, so I made them out of a solid chunk of Ladoll stone clay. It was very labor-intensive, but by the time the teeth had cured, you could kick the bear in the mouth without damaging the teeth. Once the head was done, I proceeded to paint the details that would be showing under the fur, as well as modge podge the entire bear’s head in hard coat to provide further strength. I cut out the fur using my pattern as well as referencing the size of the head and hot glued the fur to the head. As the polar bear fleece was very thin, I plushed it up with a thick gauze fleece as a lining. For the polar bear’s claws, I used mold clay to form flexible, curved claws that the actors could step on without breaking.

Polar Bear- Finished Product

The polar bear held up extremely well. It had to be stapled to the stage to prevent slippage. Even after the staples were removed, it showed no damage.

Polar Bear- Research

For “Then There Were None,” we required a polar bear skin rug. As your average polar bear skin rug is very hard to find and extremely expensive, it was decided that I should make one. I began my research by closely examining a bearskin rug made from a juvenile brown bear. As the space on stage was too small for a full-grown polar bear (10 feet by 11 feet), my polar bear would be closer in size to a full grown brown bear (7 feet by 8 feet). I conducted online research looking at polar bear rugs, polar bear skulls, artificial polar bear skin rugs, and taxidermy. I also briefly looked into purchasing a rug shell blank of a bear’s head, although this would have been impractical because I couldn’t find one that fit the size and shape of the polar bear they wanted. I also went to Cabela’s, which had in one of it’s displays a stuffed female polar bear (which was about the size of the polar bear rug I would be building) and took photos for reference.